In New Jersey they grow what we call "Jersey Tomatoes." I live "across the border" in Pennsylvania, and most certainly have never heard of a "Pennsylvania" tomato! I guess the reason for this is that "Jersey Tomatoes" have a taste all their own. In fact, they taste much more like the fruit that they are than like a vegetable.

After years of eating store bought "cardboard" tomatoes and having tried to grow my own as well I became interested in just what caused those "Jersey Tomatoes" to taste so good and so sweet.

It seems that there is a great underground mineral aquifer that runs the length of New Jersey. This, plus the alkaline sandy mineral rich soil combined with good soil permeability and adequate rainfall give the "Jersey Tomato" its great taste (as well as its nutritional value.)

We can simulate all of these conditions using only natural and healthy materials. Insects can also be controlled without using chemicals by planting Marigolds and onions around the perimeter of the growing area.

Tomato soil is not suited for all fruits and vegetables, but the basic soil structure and nutrient requirements are the same. Some plants need a more acidic or more alkaline soil. This can be corrected based on the specific needs of the plant. Most plants fare reasonably well in a neutral or slightly alkaline soil.

1. Prepare the soil. Break up the soil in the fall and mix in compost, wood chips, fertilizer and minerals. Break up and turn over the soil to at least a depth of six to twelve inches. Compost can be homemade from kitchen scraps and coffee grounds (animal waste and litter and grass clippings can be added if the compost is aged at least 4 months before use.) Fertilizer can be made from wood fire ash or barbecue ash (never apply either directly to your garden as they contain lye that could damage the plants ), and the minerals can be made up of a mixture of seashells or sedimentary rock and granite dust (from a quarry.) Wet down thoroughly and forget for the duration of the winter (or at least 4 months.) This will provide adequate nutrients to provide both growth and taste. If you ever wonder why fruits and vegetables taste like "cardboard" it is that they are missing one or more of the key ingredients above. Now, check the consistency of the soil. If it does not fall apart easily when wet, add some very fine pebbles or sand and mulch, peat moss or wood chips until it does. If it does not hold together at all, and seems to have too much plant matter in it (which is rare), then mix in some topsoil until it is of the right consistency.
2. After the completion of step one at the start of the growing season (when any chance of frost has past if you are in a frost prone region), again turn the soil over. Plant seeds or seedlings per specific planting requirements. Cover with a thin (half-inch) layer of peat moss or mulch and water with a heavy spray for at least a half-hour. Water daily until plants are an inch or two in height. Water at least twice a week thereafter.
3. DO NOT FERTILIZE until the plants reach maturity (this causes growth of green leaves and delays bearing of fruit or vegetable.) Once the plants are ready to bear their fruit or vegetables then fertilize with a high nitrogen fertilizer (wood ash or barbecue ash is better than commercial fertilizer - this can be placed AROUND the perimeter of the garden, or spread very lightly and then thoroughly watered down.)
4. Fruits and fruit-like vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, etc…) will taste sweeter if a pound of sugar per quarter acre is applied when the fruit or vegetable appears but is not yet ripe.
5. At the end of the growing season turn over the soil again (turn the dead plants into the soil.) Also mix in some fertilizer, compost and mulch.
6. Try to rotate what you plant in any one spot. In particular rotate legumes (peas, beans, etc..) in place of green leafy vegetables. You will find that this step is not as critical if you properly feed the soil as described in step one, but it does help to balance the soil.
7. Finally, always check the pH of your soil (acid or alkaline.) Kits are available to test this (a pool test kit works fairly well.) Acidic soil can be corrected by the addition of sodium carbonate (soda ash - a cleaning agent and pool supply) or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Alkaline soil can be corrected by mixing vinegar with water (a quart of vinegar to five gallons of water) and applying to soil. Any corrections should be made in the non-growing season and then pH should be checked again prior to planting. Specific plant requirements are usually listed on the seed pack, or are listed in most gardening books.

In conclusion, the most important part in growing good tasting and nutrient rich fruits and vegetables is ensuring that the soil they are grown in starts out with the required nutrients. Nutrient depleted soil cannot grow nutrient rich food. Most of our commercial produce is forced to grow in poor soil by over fertilizing with nitrogen rich inorganic fertilizer. You may as well not even eat this produce (especially after it is sprayed with anti-insect poison and then painted to look good, after which it is sprayed on the grocers shelf with anti-oxidant so it will last longer!)

Commercial growers use artificial fertilizers and insect poisons because it generally costs more to implement a natural solution. To the commercial grower it is strictly the "bottom line" that counts (how much can be grown, how fast, for how much?)

A little research will show that some plants are symbiotic - that is, they complement each other. One will chase away an insect that would be attracted to the other. Another will provide nutrients that the other one needs, etc… Typically it is not cost effective to plant in this manner. In fact, I calculate that my tomatoes and vegetables cost over two dollars a pound to produce when all is said and done. Then again, I don't put a price on the value of my health.